This is a repeat of my travel blog for Autumn 2015, but rearranged into the right order, so the trip reads right through, more or less coherently
Tues 1st Sept 2015
Tues 1st Sept 2015
Wed 2nd Sept
Another diversion, as we have a day in hand. Back to Rainham in Kent where we used to live, a trip down memory lane. Trouble was, it has changed so much we didn't remember much at all - by Golly we are pleased we moved to Dorset! Our old house has changed a lot, too. There's an extension onto the drive, and the plum tree on the front lawn has gone - one year we got 135 lb of plums from it. one thing still the same - they have kept the house name plate I made 42 years ago, and the name "Hygldi Pygldi". Very gratifying. Then on to see Rosemary's cousin in Herne Bay - she shares my birthday - and had a nice meal and some excellent beer in her local pub, before heading for Dover seafront for the night. The cruise ship "Costa Fortuna" (a particularly honest name!) was in, and sailed just after sunset. We last saw her in Dubrovnik (or maybe Venice)
The aptly named "Costa Fortuna" |
we have booked with DFDS to go to Dunkirk, still in France, but nearer the Belgian border. It is half an hour longer crossing than Calais, but after the problems with wildcat strikers (aided an abetted by the French Gendarmerie) we want to give Calais a miss. We have only booked a single crossing, to leave options about returning. However I can confirm that DFDS does a very nice breakfast.
Arriving in Dunkirk just after 11.00 French time, we were surprised to see a HUGE queue of lorries waiting to cross, the queue extending right back to the motorway. There are reports that the Channel Tunnel is closed because of illegal immigrants on the track, attempting to cross the Channel, so maybe they have diverted to Dunkirk.
We followed our favourite route - past Lille, into Belgium, and Luxembourg. Just across the German border, at Trier, there is an outdoor shop we hoped would sell the rather specialised chairs we are after. They don't! So we have settled down in a large car park by the Moselle, with quite a few other motorhomes. There is an official wohnmobilstellplatz not far away, but it costs €9, and all other services cost extra. As we are only staying a few hours we opted for the car park.
502 miles (from home) N49.738589 E6.621515
Fri 4th Sept (The day war broke out)
A storm across Germany (Blitzkrieg?) via Karlsruhe, where we had visited another Helinox chair stockist - another wasted journey. Getting close to the Austrian border, in sight of the Alps, we have stopped at a wohnmobilstellplatz at Bad Aibling , a spa town. €10 pn, inc electricity.
Miles 853, N47.856114 E12.006547
Graffiti under a Moselle bridge at Bad Ailing |
Another long storm - through Austria, Italy and Slovenia, to the campsite from hell - Camping Sirena at Novigrad in Istria. the north westerly part of Croatia.
OK, we arrived in a thunderstorm, in the dark, and very tired. It is a HUGE site, pitches mostly full and all cramped on top of one another. The first pitch we found seemingly empty, the neighbour said that was part of his pitch. One camper had placed his awning in the road, so was not pleased when we asked him to move it. The campsite roads were narrow (very narrow) with caravans jutting out into them, so navigating the obstacles in the heavy rain and dark was a nightmare. We are now on a pitch, at an angle, and the only electricity point is too far away to connect to. Then, to cap it all, they demanded our passports, to be kept by them. The Germans seemed quite happy with this - we were decidedly not, and got them returned to us. We don't expect to stay long in the morning.
Miles 1130. Longer than it should have been, because I had Sally Satnav set to avoid toll roads. A mistake, because tolls in Italy are not unreasonable, and the route avoiding them was extremely tortuous. However, avoiding tolls in Slovenia is well worthwhile. There is only 35 mile "ransom strip" between Italy and Croatia, and Slovenia milks it for every penny. A week's vignette for a motorhome is €40, compared to Austria's €8 or so for 10 days. They try to hide the fact that you can get to the vignette free roads from the border crossings. We watched Croatians and Italians dashing off up a well disguised side road, and followed them. Sally then took over and we reached Croatia without having to cough up loadsamoney for Slovenian coffers. €15 for cars was acceptable (just) - €40 is a rip off.
Sun 6th Sept
We awoke to a bright sunny morning, and by 9.30 many campers had left, so it all seemed a good deal more reasonable. However, we are moving inland slightly, to one or more of the little and old hilltop towns that Croatia does well.
The first one we visited, Buje, was quite disappointing. Not a lot there, but we did attack an ATM for some Croatian Kunas, and visit a small supermarket for the supplies we had forgotten - chiefly coffee and peanut butter. I also manage to trip, and fall flat on my face. It must have looked spectacular because a car stopped and people asked after me. Luckily, just a small scratch on my little finger. Even my camera bounced, and continues to work.
Buje |
Miles 1152 N45.334933 E13.825557
View from Motovun towards Slovenia |
I like it! Seen in Motovun |
Istria
Mon 7th Sept
We drove out from the site, to investigate even more hilltop towns, but none was as interesting as Motovun. We also read about a local script - "Galaglytic", which was in use here some centuries ago, reputedly created by St Cyril, who also invented Cyrilic, so we hunted down a few examples - but it was all hieroglyphics to me:) Then back to the nice little site at Motovun
Rosemary in my favourite dress |
Galaglytic script |
Red squirrel - a lot tamer than the British version |
Time to move on, further south, to Camping Porto Sole at Vrsar. The book says it is medium size- but it seems pretty huge to us. There is a pleasant walk into Vrsar. This is something the Croatians excel at - nice paths beside the clear blue sea but under pines most of the way. Good easy and attractive walking. In the evening we walked back into Vrsar for meal, £20 bought us a superb meal, with a litre of local Chardonnay. I'm not a wine connoisseur, but I found it very tasty
miles 1219, N45.142146 E13,601530
Vsrar, Croatia |
Wed 9th Sept
On again, only a few miles to a HUGE site near Rovinj. Quite expensive, a lovely shoreline, and some lovely views. Still surprisingly busy, and almost all Germans. And wifi isn't free. However the showers are the classiest I have seen anywhere.
Miles 1238 N45.122243 E13.628273
Sunset, Valalta camping |
We have been at Camping Valalta for 4 days, and had a very relaxing time. There are quite a few residents who spend their entire summer there - you can tell by their extensive tans. However, we always get itchy feet after a few days, and have moved to a site only a few miles away, Camping Porton Biondi, within walking distance of Rovinj.
Weather is now cloudy, and there were quite a few spots of rain, so photos of Rovinj, a beautiful islet city, don't have the sparkle they normally have. We have been here a couple of times before, and somehow the town seems less interesting than previously. Very touristy, but it always was. We must be getting stale!
At a very tourist oriented market we were given the hard sell about truffles, which are a local delicacy/industry. We've not tasted them before, and were offered tiny tasters from a very small and very expensive jar - it tasted rather like mushroom in olive oil - and it took quite a while to get rid of the taste, So much for truffles - like caviare and champagne - overrated. Back on the site, to find some very voluble Italians have taken the pitch alongside. We have already shared wine, and it looks like more will be shared tonight.
Rovinj, from Camping Porton Biondi |
Rovinj streets
Rovinj streets |
Walls and washing |
Remember this fellow? Seen on a utility box |
Rovinj |
I had my fill of Rovinj yesterday, so Rosemary walked into town on her own, with her painting materials, for some serious painting, which she enjoys a lot. I relaxed on site - and had my first ever full body massage, from a very muscular Croatian lady. It was certainly experience - I went for the "full classic", 1 hour costing £20. I'm guessing that is cheap compared to UK, but I don't expect to be having another one anytime soon.
We both walked in in the evening - there is a festival going on. The highlight of my visit to Rovinj was a very young pop group. The lead guitarist didn't look older than 10, and the female singer no more than 14 - but they were very good, and very professional
Youth pop group - they were VERY good! |
Leaving Camping Porton Biondi - a very reasonable £25 for 2 nights. We are heading for Pula, the regional capital, but first we visited a tiny mediaeval town en route - Bale, So tiny we didn't stay long at all.
A cafe (I think!) in Bale |
Miles 1273, N44.825040 E13.858339
Pula - amphitheatre, and still used for concerts |
Rosemary, in Pula Amphitheatre |
Roman pots, in a large room under the amphtheatre |
Rosemary in Pula |
Roman building, now a museum in Pula |
James Joyce, sitting in a cafe. There is another bronze of him standing on a bridge in Trieste |
Tito |
The campsite owner, a large friendly man with excellent English, made several references to his mother, who lived in a small house by the gate. We imagined a little old Croatian crone - so when she came and introduced herself we were surprised to find a lively 40 year old, with superb English. She certainly didn't look old enough to be the mother of the owner, Left Camping Diana after only 1 night, for a gentle drive eastwards around the Istrian coast, to visit the nature reserve at Kamenjak. A small peninsular, unmade roads, and beautiful Croatian beaches - limestone pavements gently sloping into the sea, and fringed with mature trees.
Quite late in the day we arrived at Camping Romantik. It isn't very romantic, but it is very friendly, and small, and was obviously someone's (large) back garden. It is obviously their hobby, and they are very proud of it - and rightly so. A tiny swimming pool, spotless amenities, and introductions all round when we arrived. In one corner is German sculptress in a rather old and hippyish caravan. She appears to be working limestone (and this area is STUFFED with limestone)
Thurs 17th Sept
It was quite a warm night, we made do with just a sheet. All our windows were open too. Left our chairs, tables and washing on site, and went off to visit Gracisce - small mediaeval town, and nearby Pazin.
Gracisce |
showing off! |
The cavern that inspired Jules Verne |
Miles 1362 N45.081342 E14.101404
Fri 18th Sept The day began in earnest at 11 am, when the assembled workers (about 8 of us) stoked up on rolls, fish, meat, cheese, apple pie and home made grappa. The 3 hours of picking grapes - first the white, then the red. They use them to make their own wine and grappa.
post picking lunch |
Moving on again - those itchy feet! To Brestova to catch a ferry to the island of Cres. We joined an enormous queue, as the ferry arrived. We were sure we would not all get on, but we did, and with a huge space behind us. Many more vehicle arrived, and there was still space when we sailed.
Cres is a long thin rugged island (actually, everywhere in Croatia is rugged!) There is nothing at the ferry terminal on either side, just a long and narrow road heading up hill to the crest of the island, Spectacular scenery.
We continued most of the way down Cres, until we reached a tiny town, Osor, which stands where Cres divides into 2 fingers. Here the Romans dug a channel across, less than 100 yards long, to allow small craft across. On one side of the bridge is a very nice campsite, and mediaeval Osor on the other side. Cobbled streets, and statues of musicians scattered around the town.
The campsite at Osor |
the channel dug by the Romans |
Osor - and its statues |
He didn't look happy at being sat on! |
We spent one night at the campsite, which has the air of a municipal site, and explored Osor, then headed south to Camping Baldarin on the eastern finger of Cress. This requires a drive along 12 miles of single track road, and it had been described as hairy - but we found it OK, as passing places were very plentiful, and oncoming traffic minimal.
At times there is a cool wind, but very nice in the sun. More excellent showers. We ate in the nearby camp restaurant - and it was superb, Rosemary had swordfish, I had mixed meat, cooked over charcoal - and very tender and tasty.
Miles 1423, N44.610393 E14.516544
Our pitch at Camping Baldarin |
Autumn equinox - and the Bora is beginning to blow. The Bora is an offshore wind caused by cold dense air simply falling off a plateau, or a mountain, under the force of gravity. Because it is offshore, it can be dangerous to swim in the Bora - people get swept out to sea. It can get very strong indeed, 200 Km/hr, but here it was only about 20 Km/hr ...and we ate in the restaurant again
Tues 22nd Sept
In contrast to yesterday, the weather today has been idyllic - warm sun, not too hot, and a very gentle breeze. The weather is due to break tomorrow, and it is time we moved on anyway.
Wed 23rd Sept
We have enjoyed our few days at Camping Baldarin. Although it is a large site, it is well spread out, and quite informal, with some lovely views. It is low season - it closes in a few weeks - and cost around £15 per night. We are planning to visit the other limb of Cres - down to the big resort of Mali-Losinj. So we drove back up the 12 miles of single track road, past the Osor and over the swing bridge over the Roman cut, and quite a few miles to Mali-Losinj.
We were aiming for a small campsite, and had a GPS for it. And Sally took us to the gates of a HUGE campsite - just like those we normally hate. After searching around a bit, we parked in a shady area and walked into town.
Cres to Mali Losinj, and back to Osor |
Not much here, so we moved on to a neighbouring town - Veli-Losinj. This was smaller, more charming and interesting, not unlike a Cornish fishing village (complete with tourists).
Mali Losinj |
water main cover |
Pasta with smallpox and zucchini - mmmm! delicious! |
Miles 1470, 44.692552 14.391700
Thurs 24th Sept
And away again, back to one of our favourite sites, Camping Romantik, where we picked the grapes a week or so ago. We were greeted like long lost friends, both by the owners, and by the caravanners who were there when we left last week,
Fri 25th Sept
We came to Camping Romantik (actually, I see now, it is Mini-Camp Romantik) to see old town of Labin. There is a big new town in the valley, and the old town, which getss a good write-up in Lonely Planet. We were planning to drive there, as it seemed quite a way, but we discovered there is an easy (but uphill) walk to the old town (stari grad) from the site - about 1 1/2 miles. and old Labin is lovely. Just touristy enough for there to be a few good cafes. I had a really good ham and egg brunch, only £2.50, which was enough for a full meal
Labin - the home of gastronomy |
Seen in Labin |
Time to move on - we want to see the Hapsburg resort of Opatija further up the coast. Leaving the site took a long time.
First, we had a long goodbye with our Dutch neighbours, and then our German neighbours wanted to know all about Cres. Then we went to pay, and found ourselves having breakfast (a second breakfast) with Florijana the owner, her sister, and the German sculptress Angelika. Eventually we made a break for freedom, after promising we will return. And we will, easily one of the best and friendliest campsites we've been to.
Labin to Opatija |
Opatija has a very rocky coastline (no surprise - so has the rest of Croatia) and there is a promenade that stretches for miles in each direction. Steps down from the campsite lead to the promenade, then it is a pleasant walk into Opatija. We were expecting great things of Opatija - it has lots of grand Hapsburg buildings, originally holiday homes for wealthy Austrians in the days of the empire, now mostly hotels and casinos. However quite a few are abandoned and derelict, although you can see echoes of their former glory. Rosemary summed it up well - "we were expecting Eastbourne, but we got Bournemouth" - another grand place wrecked by commercialism
Cormorants (someone will tell me they are shags!) close to the shore |
Opatija has a famous statue |
James Joyce certainly gets around - and I've never read Ulysses |
Sun 27th Sept
In just a few hours, we have been in Croatia, Slovenia, Italy and Austria. The total distance in Slovenia was 27 miles. Using a motorway for that would have cost either €15 or €30, depending how we were classified. Instead Sally took us via non motorway main roads - which is the way most people go it seems, judging by how busy it was.
In Italy, we returned to the Plockenpass into Austria. On one of the tighter hairpins near the top, one of those that also has a tunnel, a car came round too fast and too wide. We avoided a direct crash, but he did slide down the side, damaging the fibre glass skirting, and leaving his black paint along the side. We didn't stop to examine it at the time - stopping there would have caused traffic mayhem.
Croatia to Austria |
Miles 1710, 46.744528 13.043927
Mon 28th Sept
We are north of the Dolomites, but south of the Alps. Our plan is continue west, in the valley between the 2 ranges. This will lead us shortly back into Italy, and then into Switzerland. We are still discussing how to cross the Alps.
Once into Italy we found a reasonably size supermarket, we are really short of fruit and veg. We like Croatia very much, but it has to be said their supermarkets and veg shops are pretty poor. The area is stuffed with apple orchards. We have seen more apple trees today than we have seen in the previous 65 years - and we grew up in orchard country! We also stopped at a roadside stall, selling apples from the attached orchards. Generally we avoid buying apples abroad - they are generally horrible (exception - the Coxs we bought on Bavaria last year, better than British Coxs). However this enterprising farmer had apples to taste, and we particularly liked Elstar and a green apple "Renetta del Canada", all at €1 per Kg, - about 30p/lb. We bought 17 Kg, which we now have to find room for. The Renetta del Canada din't look too great, but is delicious.
The route did include an Italian motorway - €3.70 for about 60 miles. If French motorways weren't at least 10 times as expensive as this we'd use them instead of the routes nationales. We are now at a free Italian aire, (sosta), at Silandro, close to the Swiss border
Miles 1871, 46.627216 10.781768
The free aire at Silandro |
and views from the front window |
Tues 29th Sept
An hour spent looking at Silandro, and back on the road into Switzerland We were in 2 minds whether to buy a motorway vignette, about €40 for a year (ie 2015, not 12 months). We did, to give us more options, even though we'll only be here 3 days. An interesting and scenic road, but very slow. At one Swiss town, Glurns, the road went through a narrow gate through the mediaeval wall, which had signs warning it was only 2.8 metres high. We are 2.75 metres high, and it looked tiny. Initially we chickened out, parked up and walked into town for coffee and sightseeing. As we did so a similar sized motorhome came through the gate - and there was oodles of space all round. So after our coffee we followed suit.
The gate looked tiny as we approached - but there's bags of room! |
Glurns |
Glurns |
Glurns |
Mustair, Switzerland |
Mustair, Switzerland, the monastery |
Guardia |
View from Guardia |
Miles 1940 46.632202 10.014833
Austria, Italy, Switzerland, France |
Woke up to a frost, the first this autumn, and a very cold morning. I mentioned this to the lady selling bread at reception, and she said "well, we are at 1,600 metres!" We are continuing our gentle amble homewards, along the very pleasant Engadin valley. After St Moritz we turned north over the Julierpass . a high but easy pass, spectacular views and very little traffic. We stopped at Savognin, because it has a campsite and a chairlift. The campsite was awful, but we had a very enjoyable up and down on the chairlift.
View from the chairlift - what you cannot see is the biting wind! |
Miles 2010, N46.777095 E9.541028
Thurs 1st Oct
Chairlift adjacent - too good to miss. There is also a toboggan run, reputedly the longest in Europe. I've never tried one of these before - so an opportunity not to be missed. And it was really exhilarating - steep slopes and sharp bends. I shall be keeping a lookout for these in the future.
apprehensive! |
It's a long way down! |
Auerhahn - capercaillie - a BIG bird (and rare) |
On the Heidi weg (the cows aren't real) |
Fri 2nd Oct
A very cold night, and a lovely but very cold morning. We have determined to go up in the ski lift - small cabins this time, then meander back down. We dressed up warmly, and, typically, when we got to the top it was baking. It was a nice scenic walk back - about 8 miles. The signpost said 2 1/2 hours, but it took us 3 1/4 hours.
Sat 3rd Oct
Time to start the long trek home. We have booked a ferry on Monday afternoon, from Calais. The plan for today is to look at the town of Elm, then drive 160 miles to Colmar, in France, find a hypermarche, then stop at one of the aires there.
Elm is famous for the shaft of sunlight that peeks though a crack on the mountains on just one day of the year, lighting up the church spire (so famous we hadn't heard of it until we read it in the Guardian 2 days ago). And we missed it by 2 days!
We left Switzerland via Basle - motorway all the way. It WAS worth buying the vignette after all, it would have taken forever on ordinary roads. Into France, and we eventually found a huge Cora, tucked away outside of Colmar, after some searching. We now have to find space for another 24 bottles of wine - but we got them securely stowed eventually. There are 3 aires in Colmar, 2 near the city centre, and we are on one of those. It is in the middle of of housing estate, but is an easy walk into Colmar. Day parking costs €5 per day, free lunchtimes and overnight.
Colmar centre is an absolute delight - full of cobbled streets and mediaeval houses, and mostly unspoilt by modern developments. There are a huge number of tourists during the day ("tourist" = any visitor except us!), but much quieter at night - even Saturday night. We shall surely be returning here - it is close to a good route to Italy. We would stay longer - but we have a ferry tomorrow evening - and still 500 miles to drive. They also have a one quarter sized statue of liberty, There was a small "Free Tibet" demonstration in front of it when we passed it.
The last leg |
Eventually we joined our normal autobahn to Luxembourg. where we topped up with cheap diesel, then through Belgium to Charleroi, before turning left to head across France towards Azincourt. We have parked up overnight in a Vauban fortified town - Quesnoy. Superb fortifications by the master military engineer Vauban, grotty little town with no control over where they empty their dogs.
There is a monument to the New Zealand soldiers who, in the last week of WW1, scaled the 17th century fortifications to take the town from the occupying forces - who promptly surrendered - no one wants to be the last man to die in a war!
The spot where the Kiwis scaled the wall, November 1918 |
Miles 2588 N50.248412 E3.632843
Mon 5th Oct
Another look at the Vauban fortifications. They are huge and magnificent, and there are lots of these scattered across France. Then on the road again, for Azincourt. Not far, but a 2 hour cross country drive nevertheless.
There is a superb little museum here, all about the battle. Worth the €7.50 entrance. You can also drive round the perimeter of the battle site. Unsurprisingly after 600 years, there's not a lot to see, but is fascinating being on the spot where it took place.
Basically, the French did not have a single competent leader, they were cocky and over confident, and they totally underestimated the power of the longbow. 1500 archers, and each could have 3 arrows in the air at the same time, means a devastating blanket of arrows, each capable of piercing armour. A freshly ploughed field, and heavy rain, meant the French cavalry and infantry turned the field into a quagmire before they even reached the English lines, when they were knackered. Following waves, eager to get some action before all the English had been killed, piled into the knights and soldiers retreating, and falling over the dead and dying. Heavy armour meant they couldn't get up again. Then all the English archer had to do was push a dagger through one of the gaps in the armour.
Agincourt - the battlefield |
Some knights look remarkably realistic...(spot a camera in 2nd knight?) "Gentlemen in England now abed will think themselves accursed they were not here on St Crispian's day" |
We lunched at the local hostelry, the €15 menu de jour, but it decidedly wasn't good value for money. Then on the road again, for Calais and the ferry. The last time we were there wildcat strikers held us up for 4 hours, but there were no problems this time.
It is now 9pm UK time, and we are spending the night on Dover seafront.
Miles 2738 N 51.121105 E 1.313731
Tues 6th Oct
A quiet night. then off through the usual heavy heavy traffic and queues of lorries on the M20 and M25, to Rosemary's Dad and step mother in Horsham - accompanied by torrential rain. We are spending the night at Slinfold Caravan Club site. only 4 miles from my father in law.
Miles 2841
Fri 9th Oct
Late pm - home again in Shaftesbury - and a mountain of mail Miles 2950
Sun 11th Oct
Not strictly part of idling round Istria, but worth adding. Today is the last flight of the last flying Avro Vulcan, the iconic delta wing bomber of the cold war era, and I drove to Old Sarum, near Salisbury, which was one of the turning points on its flight path, Huge crowds, and she was in view for less than a minute, but worth the trip.
Avro Vulcan's last flight, over Old Sarum |